It is that time of year when many of us are extracting honey – hopefully. In a couple of blogs I will cover some of the possibilities and techniques.

The first thing to do when getting the honey is to remove the full frames from the hive. Normally I put a board with a rhombus bee escape on the hive. I did this on one of my hives this year – but then life got in the way and I was not able to get back for a couple of days.

The result was the bees found their way back up to the honey and when we opened the hive we had bees right up to the crown board. Give them more than 24 hours separated from their stores and they will work out how to get to them. Clever little buggers these bees!

Now there are some who would tell you that you can clear a super with some smoke and a bee brush – well some you can but not this hive. These bees are not very friendly and even less so when I am trying to steal their stores.

One option, which I had never previously considered, was suggested at the recent bee meeting. Instead of taking a whole super just take a couple of frames from the middle of the super, shake off the bees and brush the rest off with a bee brush.Then put the frames out of reach of the bees. Push the remaining frames in the super together and put a replacement frame at each end of the super. This ways the bees are far less disturbed but it does mean that collecting ten frames takes five visits.

Anyway the title of the blog is decapping since that is what we were doing at the recent bee meeting.

One technique is to use a decapping knife. Below is my knife. The pen is there simply to indicate the scale.

Uncapping Knife
An uncapping knife.

My method for using this was to keep the knife in a tray of very hot water and when I came to use it I would support the frame vertically on end then slide the knife across the comb taking off the caps. A hot knife cuts through the wax caps more easily. You can get decapping knives which are electrically heated removing the need for the tray of hot water.

Using a decapping knife can be quite messy and results in a tray of wax cappings and honey. It can also miss a lot of the caps since bees do not build the frames with a view to making life easy for the honey thief. In addition there are some cells which are built larger than the others so the knife cuts off not just the cap but also a lot of the cell and its contents.

Start of the uncapping process
A capped frame being uncapped with a knife.

This picture shows the start of the decapping process using a knife. The frame is supported on a piece of wood resting across a bucket which will collect the drips of honey and the wax cappings.

Note that the wooden support can be made at home by screwing two blocks of wood on the cross beam so that the beam cannot fall into the bucket and then drill a suitable size hole for the end of the frame.

Or you could spend over £30 for a plastic holder that may not fit your bucket!

The angle of the knife is quite crucial as the aim is to remove all the cappings but none of the honey.

Halfway through the uncapping process.

This shot shows the frame almost completely decapped. One advantage of using a decapping knife is that at the same time as you are taking off the caps you are also trimming the frame to fit the hive better. This is not the case with the hot air method of decapping described later.

Bare knees are not necessary but it is easier to wash honey of knees rather than trousers.

Uncapping  Done
Uncapping almost complete.

And this shot shows the frame almost completely decapped.

Note the cappings in the tray, These can be strained to get out some more honey and when you have got all you can then you can return the cappings to the hive and let the bees sort out the rest. The cappings are best returned to the hive from which they came to avoid cross contamination and upsetting the bees with smells from another hive.

In recent years I have used a completely different technique – hot air gun. The one I use is sold as a hot air gun by Screwfix. I hold the frame vertically as we do for knife decapping and then pass the hot air over the front of the frame. It takes just seconds for the caps to melt and draw back from the cell opening. I never let the gun stay over any area for too long as I only wish to melt the cap and not the cell or the honey.

In a recent session I was extracting a whole super and I only had two drops of wax that fell in the tray. The rest was left on the super ready for the bees to use again recapping full cells.

Anyway that is enough about decapping. Next time we will look at the extraction of the honey from the cells.


Bees and Honey at Dorchester County Show

Hopefully the bees are doing what bees should be doing – making honey. And now is your chance to show us how good your bees are.

At the Dorchester County Show there will be a Honey Competition where the best bees can be judged- as well as their keepers!

Attached to this blog is the schedule for the show and also an entry form.

There is no point in producing the whole of the document again on this page but for those of us who sell honey I thought these words of advice from the schedule may be of interest:

  • Ensure that clear honey is clear with no crystals or frothy scum.
  • Ensure that set honey is set.
  • The surface should be dry with no trace of scum or ring of bubbles.
  • Overfill your jars to start with – this allows for skimming.
  • Ensure your honey is spotlessly clean.
  • Honey must be free from all foreign matter.
  • Screw the lid on firmly, polish the outside of the jar and stick on the label.
  • The next person to remove the lid should be the customer.
  • It doesn’t matter if the lid is wet with honey – as long as there is no honey on the outside of the lid or the jar.

Hopefully this will help you present your honey whether it is to the Show Judge, a consumer or just the tea table.

Anyway if you are entering the show here is the schedule and when you have read that then here is the entry form.


Furzehill Farm Meeting

We had about 15 members attending. We looked at a Top Bar Hive, Polyhives, and Nationals as well as having a lovely apiary tea in the shade of the orchard. The bees were very well-behaved considering how hot it was. We also practised using a refractometer on honey in the comb and some already taken off.


Sunday Apiary Visit

Apiary Meeting on Sunday 24th June

Our first meeting of the season was very successful and enjoyable. It was at Nick Knight’s apiary at the foot of the White Horse Hill. About 20 people attended including some very new beginners who, thanks to Nick, were able to handle bees for the first time. Nick also opened his Top Bar Hive which was very interesting to many of us who have not seen one in action before. The meeting ended with a tea break and a bit of a Q&A session.


World Bee Day

This Sunday, 20th May, is World Bee Day to raise awareness of the importance of the Honey Bee in the environment and in our economy.

I have had a look at the web site link given above and it is full of a wealth of useful information and well worth looking at.

Locally we are doing our bit with a display at Poundbury Garden Centre It has produced a lot of interest and I advise you to pop up and have a look – perhaps even answer a few questions from the curious.

Asian Hornet

Sorry to raise this issue again but it is something that has not gone away – in fact it is becoming more worrying.

There has been a sighting of the Asian Hornet in Bury in Greater Manchester on a cauliflower which was traced back to a farm in Lincolnshire. This one was identified as an Asian Hornet Queen – but it got away.

Estimates of the damage that the Asian Hornet can do vary but it is estimated that a single Asian Hornet can eat 50 or so honey bees a day.

It is suggested that the next two weeks are the most crucial if we are to prevent this pest becoming established in the UK.

I know I have said it before but there is an excellent ‘Asian Hornet Watch’ app available to download from the Apple and Android app stores which can be used for identification and reporting. This is not just for beekeepers but for anyone.
Asian Hornet (BWARS)

Local Events.

Couple of local events coming up which may be of interest to beekeepers – and indeed anyone interested in the natural world.

Saturday 14th April

Radipole Park is holding a day entitled “Nurture Nature and Welcome Wildlife” from 11am to 3pm on Saturday 14th April. There will be a chance to meet wildlife experts as well as children’s activities and refreshments available.

Monday 14th May for two weeks to Sunday 27th May

Poundbury Garden Centre will have a display set up by Dorchester and Weymouth Bee Keepers Association. This is to coincide with World Bee Day on Sunday 20th May. We expect a lot of interest in the stand and we are looking for volunteers to be there to answer questions. From experience I can tell you many of the questions will be of the sort “Have you been stung?” and “Does it hurt?”. The aim is to raise profile of the bees and their importance in pollination. Honey is a tasty extra.

If you can spare an hour or two then do let Sally know. There is tea/coffee for volunteers!


Equipment for sale.

Following the recent very successful auction there were several people who have contacted us and said they wish they had known that there was an auction. And then there were others who wished they had better described their goods so that they stood a better chance of being sold.

In the light of this we have added a section to the website where we can bring vendors and purchasers together. This new section can be near the top of the page under the equipment menu.

There was a honey spinner for sale  here but it has been removed – because it is sold.

If you have any bee equipment to sell then this is the site that could do it for you/

Further items will be added as I am sent details at

If there is a specific item you seek then let me know and I can add them to the “Wanted” section.


Bees and sprays


Lovely sunny day, hardly a cloud in the sky and just a day to get out and apply that first spray to the crops – but what about the bees?

There are all sorts of reasons that bees suffer from colony collapse or fail to do what we expect them to and one of the reasons that is often suggested is crop spraying.

In towns where many of us keep bees this is not a problem as there is very little spraying which is likely to drift far from the intended plants. However in the countryside it can be a far more serious problem.

It is for this reason I was intrigued to see a web site that helps around this problem. The site is and aims to advise bee keepers when there is going to be spraying in the vicinity of their hives.

The way it works is that farmers who are registered place a pin on the map where they are going to spray and show what is being sprayed. As beekeepers we also place a pin on the map to show where we keep hives. It is not necessary to have a post code for a hive which is probably as well.

The farmer will notify  beeconnected when they are going to spray and an email is then sent to the owners of the  registered apiaries in the area which is being sprayed. Bee keepers can decide how big a radius they want to cover and the software allows them to choose up to 5km which is about as far as the bees are likely to go to forage.

In this area – around Dorchester – there are 15 farmers registered and 47 beekeepers. Fifteen farmers may not sound like a lot but with the size of many farms these days this could cover a lot of land.

So if you are a beekeeper it is a good idea to register.

But what do you do if you get notification that there will be spraying in your area? One suggestion is to move your bees to a new location but for those who have ever done this then you have some idea what a problem this can be.

A more practical suggestion is to cover the hive very loosely with wet sacking – more like a tent with the hive in it than a well wrapped parcel. Allow the bees space to move out of the hive and cluster by the entrance if it is too hot inside. The sacking should be kept wet to avoid the hive overheating and at the same time it may absorb some of the drift. It is not ideal but there seem to be no sure-fire ways to protect bees.





What happened at the auction?

Well I am sorry to say that if you were not there you missed it! Was it worth going to? Well I will let you decide.

There was a complete National Hive there with two supers, a brood, crown board, roof and legs and that went for £76 and then another one for £95. Now you don’t have to look far in some well known catalogues to realise these were bargains.

For those of you interested in microscopy then this was your chance to pick up a good looking microscope for £40 – another bargain.

National Supers were going for about £10 each.

Not everything was sold and a manual spinner with settling tank did not reach its reserve of £100 but for many things there was brisk and enthusiastic bidding.

This year I don’t need anything but next year could be different and I will certainly be putting the auction on my calendar.